homemade vegetarian banh mi, a cautionary tale

Posted by Stacy · 2 Comments 

Have you ever tried bánh mì? I’ve also heard them called Vietnamese baguettes or just Vietnamese sandwiches, and that’s what they are. “Bánh mì” translates to “bread,” the most important component of these delicious sandwiches.

Vietnam was a French colony (French Indochina), so these sandwiches combine the two food traditions. A crisp bread roll is (traditionally) filled with pâté, mayonnaise, pickled carrots and radish, cilantro, and peppers. My first experience with bánh mì was at Jasmine Deli, a small restaurant on Nicollet Mall in Minneapolis. They cater to a large vegetarian population and have a wonderful meat-free option that is filled with curried mock duck.

vegetarian banh mi

Since moving to San Diego I have been searching for an elusive substitute, my complaint being that all the shops here are too authentic and don’t serve good vegetarian options (boo hoo). Their “veggie” sandwich just leaves off the meat. Bread, pickles, and cilantro do not a satisfying sandwich make.

You might expect this to be the point where I tell you how I immediately went to the kitchen to make my own sandwich rolls and all that, but you would be wrong. After intending to make my own sandwiches but just whining about it for months, my husband planned a little dinnertime surprise.

He bought some Vietnamese baguettes at the Asian-owned European bakery across the street (four for about a dollar). After a brief consultation with me, he stopped at the Asian grocery to pick up a daikon radish, snagged a carrot and some cilantro from the CSA box, looked up my recipe for homemade mock duck and got out the little-used mandoline (this is the brand we own, not the one I would necessarily recommend).

If you are unfamiliar with the mandoline (not to be confused with a mandolin) it is basically a combination of a knife, grater, and killing machine.

It makes thin, uniform slices (think scalloped potatoes), julienne and waffle cuts (think French fries), or bloody kitchen injuries (think your husband getting a piece of radish stuck in the blade and then trying to dislodge it with his hand, thus dramatically gashing his finger in multiple places at 11:00pm after you’ve had an exhausting day at work).

pickled carrots and radish

The idea for using the mandoline was to get some nice thin carrot and radish pieces to lightly pickle for the sandwiches. Following his hideous injury I forbade him from using the mandoline anymore and threatened him with the traditional mark of shame of a professional kitchen.

So I made the pickles, he made the seitan. Team effort, no stitches required!

We had them for dinner, then I took leftovers to work for a few days. Make the pickles and mock duck the night before and you’re ready to go. Marinated tofu also makes a nice filling, but the curried mock duck tastes like Eat Street!

Have you had bánh mì? Do you make restaurant knock-offs at home?

vegetarian banh mi

Curried Mock Duck Banh Mi

Inspired by Jasmine Deli, pickle recipe from TheKitchn
Makes 3-4 sandwiches

If you don’t have an Asian grocery or bakery nearby, you can make your own baguettes. They should be crisp on the outside and very soft on the inside — like a better version of supermarket “French bread.”

Ingredients:
Pickles (do chua):

  • 1 cup julienned daikon radish
  • 1 cup julienned carrots
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 cup white vinegar
  • 1 cup water

Sandwiches:

  • Vietnamese sandwich rolls (see note above)
  • Mock duck or seitan
  • Curry powder
  • Do chua pickles (above)
  • Sliced cucumber
  • Jalapeno pepper, sliced into rings
  • Fresh cilantro
  • Mayonnaise

Directions:

  1. Stir together salt, sugar, vinegar and water. Add daikon and carrots. Cover and refrigerate an hour or longer.
  2. Sprinkle mock duck with curry powder. Saute with a little oil, adding a tablespoon of water at a time if mock duck seems dry.
  3. Toast baguettes. Spread with a thin layer of mayonnaise. Add seasoned mock duck, drained pickles, and other toppings as desired.

vegetarian banh mi


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csa share 09/01/10

Posted by Stacy · 1 Comment 

The abundance of our CSA box made me so happy this week. We picked it up on Wednesday as usual but I haven’t been home during daylight hours for my little bi-weekly photo shoot.

It’s strange that the first week of September is giving us such “summery” foods. Everyone else is talking about fall, and I’m staring at a counter full of these:

csa share 09/01/10

But wait, there’s more…

csa share 09/01/10

csa share 09/01/10

csa share 09/01/10

csa share 09/01/10csa share 09/01/10

Today’s lunch was a simple stir fry that used the green beans mixed with some cubed tofu, garlic, ginger, and miso.

I haven’t tried the melons yet, and these fancy eggplants intrigue me greatly.

What’s in your CSA?


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new food friday 09.03.10

Posted by Stacy · 5 Comments 

We also got our CSA share this week but I just managed to take pictures (curse you, working during all daylight hours!) so those will go up today, too.

When I started my new job a few weeks ago, one of my coworkers mentioned that she hates to cook. Shocking, I know, but completely true. She likes to eat healthy food, but she won’t even cut up fruit for her lunch. She had been eyeballing my packed lunches (post forthcoming, I swear) for a while, so when we started our long days of technical rehearsals she said, “If you bring me lunch, I will bring you money. I am not kidding.” So I have been.

It’s given me an excuse to use up produce and keep trying out new dishes, so it’s one of these lunches that brings me to this week’s

new food friday

red quinoa

Red quinoa! Pronounced “keen-wa”, is native to South America and was called “mother of all grains” by the Incas. It’s a seed, not an actual cereal grain, gluten-free, and very high in protein, iron, and fiber. There are several commonly-found varieties, and this is the red version. It has a bit nuttier flavor than the lighter-colored type.

Basic Cooking Method for Quinoa

  1. Place quinoa in a bowl or sieve and rinse thoroughly. Quinoa is coated with a layer of saponin (you’ll recognize the root word for “soap” there) that must be rinsed off to prevent a soapy taste. Rinse several times and then drain.
  2. Heat a small amount of oil in a pan over medium heat. Add quinoa and stir until coated. Toast about 3-5 minutes until fragrant.
  3. Add water (twice the amount of water as quinoa) and stir. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a bare simmer and cook, covered, about 20 minutes. Check after 20 minutes to see if more water is needed (quinoa stuck to the bottom of the pan) or if it needs to cook for a few more minutes (excess water left in the pan).
  4. Let stand 5 more minutes before serving.

red quinoa

I made a really awesome quinoa salad that I didn’t photograph but will try to get the recipe up soon.

Have you had quinoa? What did you try this week?


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fruit and flowers

Posted by Stacy · 6 Comments 

09.03.06

09.03.06

09.03.06

Happy anniversary to my Veggie-Hating Husband.

Four years down, many to go.

09.03.06

Photos by the amazing Jennifer Cress.

the kitchen reader: animal, vegetable, miracle

Posted by Stacy · 10 Comments 

The August selection for the Kitchen Reader was Animal, Vegetable, Miracle by Barbara Kingsolver, chosen by Karen of Shortbread South.

Kingsolver is usually a novelist, probably best known for writing The Poisonwood Bible, but this was the first book of hers that I have read.

The non-fiction work subtitled “A Year of Food Life” begins in a convenience store in Arizona with a situation that resonates with me more after moving to the Southwest. Kingsolver, her husband, and two daughters are stocking up on snacks for a car trip that will move them from Tucson to Appalachia. As a rainstorm threatens for the first time in over 200 days, the gas station cashier grumbles that the first rain in months could ruin her only day off.

Kingsolver’s book tracks the year-long journey of her family from desert-dwelling suburbanites to self-sustaining farmers in Virginia. It’s a family project, not taken on lightly. Kingsolver’s husband, Steven Hopp, interjects in the way of small sidebars on various topics. Then-19-year-old daughter Camille adds her perspective plus recipes. Even the youngest daughter, Lily, makes a sizable contribution.

The plan? To only eat food grown and produced locally. They start at the farmer’s market in town, gradually shifting to their own large garden plot as the season wears on. They plant seeds, weed beds, and raise chickens. It isn’t a project in deprivation or perfection, and they are allowed some items like spices and coffee that can’t be grown everywhere — but they keep it organic and fair-trade.

What I love about this book (other than the quality of writing which is lovely) is that it doesn’t sugar-coat the experience. Do they learn a lot? Yes. Are the lessons valuable? Yes. Is it easy? No. Kingsolver acknowledges that it is an experiment and a challenge, they have struggles and failures, but they learn and grow.

Kingsolver also includes plenty of information on food miles, factory farming, and other debates about the locavore movement. She is quick to point out that the extreme example of her family is not a normal goal for most people and she does not expect it to be. Instead she focuses on what they learned from the experience both as a family and as individuals.

While acquiring/producing food is one challenge, making meals of it is another, and both are part of the book. I really enjoyed young Lily’s participation in raising chickens and selling eggs. Working out seasonal menus was another interesting facet. A chapter that really struck me was called “Six Impossible Things Before Breakfast,” chronologically referencing the June of their year-long experience. Kingsolver writes about her experience as a modern working mother, relying on pre-packaged convenience foods to save time. There is so much I love about this chapter I could quote about four pages, but I’ll limit myself to just one.

“Full-time homemaking may not be an option for those of us delivered without trust funds into the modern era. But approaching mealtimes as a creative opportunity, rather than a chore, is an option. Required participation from spouse and kids is an element of the equation. An obsession with spotless collars, ironing, and kitchen floors you can eat off of — not so much. We’ve earn the right too forget about stupefying household busywork. But kitchens where food is cooked and eaten, those were really a good idea.”

The book provides great research and information about farming and food systems, a wonderful narrative and personal account of a year in the life of a family, and some wonderful insight into the experience and reasoning behind taking on such a project. I could blather on longer, but you should give up on me and get a copy of this to read yourself.

Have you read Animal, Vegetable, Miracle? What did you think?

For other opinions check out the blogroll at The Kitchen Reader for more reviews.


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new food friday 08.27.10

Posted by Stacy · 7 Comments 

My husband actually had to remind me to post today. Not that I forgot about New Food Friday, just that I didn’t realize it was already the end of the week!.

Granted, my day off is switching to Mondays so Friday is really my Wednesday (how’s that for confusing?).

Anyway.

This week’s new food: okra.

roasted okra and potatoes

Neither my husband nor myself had ever had it (caveat: that we remember), nor had my friend who had popped by on her way home and was guilted into staying for dinner.

Who can resist an invitation of “Hey, we’re home late and now that you’ve been sitting on our front stoop waiting, want to hang out while I do laundry and roast vegetables you might not like on a hot day?”

Luckily my friend was easily convinced/tricked and was able to visit before I descend into technical rehearsals (read: long long long hours) and she leaves for Italy today (read: jealous).

roasted okra and potatoes

The verdict? Inoffensive.

After so many horror stories about slimy, sticky okra, we weren’t sure what to expect. I chopped it into vaguely uniform pieces, tossed the okra with parboiled diced potatoes, olive oil, salt, pepper, and ground cumin, then roasted the lot at 425F for about 20 minutes. A sprinkle of garam masala spice mix, another dusting of salt, and I thought it was pretty darn good. It didn’t have a strong flavor other than the spices, but I liked it. It reminded me a bit of eggplant. I’m not sure I would seek it out specifically, but at least I’m not scared of getting it again in the CSA.

What new food did you try this week?

tlacoyo masa pockets or “yummy bean empanada-like thingies”

Posted by Stacy · 3 Comments 

This is my last Sunday off until late October. Next week we switch to having Mondays off — that’s actually a normal theater schedule.

It’s actually sort of nice to have a weekday free to run errands and go to the bank and do laundry when everyone else in the universe is back at work. The bummer is when your friends are also back at work.

Dinner around here has been a lot of repeats, but my husband has been doing an admirable job of keeping us fed with non-macaroni-based meals. There is definite teamwork involved and some kitchen safety reminders that have come up, but not as much daylight or photography involved as usual. I’m actually trying to get him to write a “guest” post for me!

What photography I did manage for this post is poorly-lit. Don’t let that dissuade you from making these, though, because they were really good. Any dish that has me excited about leftovers is impressive.

tlacoyo masa pockets

These unassuming lumps are made from masa harina, the finely-ground lime-treated corn meal used to make corn tortillas. They are filled with refried black beans and cheese, then fried. Crunchy coleslaw and spicy salsa make a nice contrast to the softer textures of the masa pockets.

The filling can be prepared in advance, and I made my coworkers super jealous when I took leftovers for lunch to reheat in the toaster oven. I tossed a little frozen corn in the filling for that one and it worked nicely. Some sauteed peppers wouldn’t be bad, either.

tlacoyo masa pockets

The first pocket I made cracked and fell apart, but the rest worked out really well after I figured out the right technique. I detailed it below in the recipe instructions.

My only disappointment was the slaw recipe I tried. It called for chiles de arbol but turned out a bit bland. The concept was good, but I would use a slaw like this instead, maybe with a little jalapeno added.

Also, I have no idea how to properly pronounce “tlacoyo,” let alone remember it. We have been calling them “the empanada-like thingies,” and it works for us.

What meals do you save for your day off?

tlacoyo masa pockets

Tlacoyo Masa Pockets

Adapted from Serious Eats
Serves 4

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup masa flour (such as Maseca)
  • 3/4 cup of water
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil plus more for frying
  • 1/2 medium onion, diced
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1 1/2 cups cooked black beans, or 1 can (15 ounces) black beans
  • 2 ounces shredded Monterey Jack cheese
  • salsa, chopped onion, and cilantro for garnish

Directions:

  1. Whisk together masa and salt. Add water and stir to combine. Add more water if needed until all flour is incorporated; form dough into a ball.
  2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally until softened, about 4 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant. Add beans, unrinsed, and raise heat to high, cooking for 3-4 more minutes. Use a wooden spoon or a spatula to mash beans. Remove from heat.
  3. Divide masa dough into four pieces (I weigh the dough on a kitchen scale to help do this) and roll each piece into a ball. Cut open the sides of a 1-gallon plastic zip-top bag. Place a ball of dough between the pieces of plastic bag. Use a heavy skillet or rolling pin to flatten the dough into a circle about 8 inches in diameter.
  4. Peel one piece of plastic off the dough. Add a scoop of refried beans and a sprinkle of cheese to the dough, then use the plastic bag to fold the circle in half to form a semi-circular pocket. Pinch the edges closed then carefully peel off the rest of the plastic. Repeat with the other 3 balls of dough.
  5. Heat 3 tablespoons of oil in a large skillet over fairly high heat. Add the masa pockets 2 at a time to avoid crowding. Cook on each side for 3-4 minutes until golden brown. Drain on paper towels before serving.
  6. Serve hot with salsa, onion, cilantro, avocado, and/or vinegar-based coleslaw.

tlacoyo masa pockets


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new food friday 08.20.10

Posted by Stacy · 3 Comments 

Hey there, New Food Friday, how you doing? Did you try a new food this week?

Mine was maybe a bit boring in some ways. A while back I was making a recipe — I don’t even remember what — that called for chiles de arbol. When I mentioned them my husband, he scoffed, “Tree chiles? What’s that supposed to mean?”

I am neither a Spanish-speaker, nor the contrary cuss that he is, so I just rolled my eyes and went back to cooking an awesome dinner sans peanut gallery. Hmph.

The next time I was at the store, however, what did I see?

chiles de arbol

It’s actually a fairly sizable bag for less than $2, so I tossed them in my basket. They sat in the back of the cupboard, taunting me to use them.

My parents never did even remotely spicy foods when I was growing up and aren’t big fans of Mexican food to this day. Now my sister and I both love Mexican food (and have cats –sorry Dad!) so I guess there’s only so much you can do.

Try to plan ahead for your kids and provide a grandma from a delicious culinary ethnic background. I’m not knocking my family cookbook, but my Norwegian and English ancestry didn’t exactly make for exciting traditional cuisine.

At least it leaves me more new foods to try, right?

chiles de arbol

When I came across a recipe that called for the chiles I was excited to get to use them. Sadly, the recipe was mediocre. You live, you learn, right? At least I now have a sizable stash of chiles de arbol in case of emergency. I am a wuss so I knocked most of the seeds out of these bad boys before I used them to avoid melting my face off like I sometimes manage with the fresh peppers from our CSA.

What did you try this week? A new vegetable? A new grain? A new cheese?

chiles de arbol


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csa share 8/18/10

Posted by Stacy · 6 Comments 

The veggies have landed! After some confusion last week, we are back on track.

And so is summer! The coldest July in 75 years did not exactly do much for heat-loving summer crops, but we’re finally getting a few.

This week we also got micro basil and mini-white cucumbers, but I neglected to take a photo of them. You can see them from a previous week if you want.

csa share 08/18/10

csa share 08/18/10

csa share 08/18/10

csa share 08/18/10

A few recipes ideas for using up your CSA vegetables:

There’s a raw beet and carrot salad I’m thinking of making, we’re pickling some of the carrots for a special project, and I have some other ideas. I’m pretty excited about the fava beans and okra, but they might have to wait until my day off to devote some time and daylight to using them.

What’s in your CSA?


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the amazing afghan

Posted by Stacy · 16 Comments 

My friend Kimberly and I met when we sat together in high school physics class — I would nap before class, she would knit socks and mittens and wake me up before class started.

Where other friends brought a bag of chips and six-pack of beer to a potluck, Kimberly brought homemade twinberry jam bars and apple spice cake. The year I teased her about these habits, she responded by dressing up as Suzie Homemaker for Halloween. When she found out we were moving to California, her first comment was, “A move halfway across the country may require a housewarming gift. Thoughts?”

Kimberly is well-known for her knitting and crocheting skills and her all-around awesomeness. While any gift would be very appreciated, I couldn’t very well ask her to invest that much time and effort in something. So imagine my surprise when a box arrived from Virginia containing a beautiful crocheted afghan!

The only request that accompanied such a generous gift was that I take photos of it for her.

It’s really a beautiful blanket, and perfect for curling up for a nap on the couch. The kitties agree and will only nap on the couch if the afghan is on it.

Since my living room doesn’t have great light I decided to use a model for scale and interest.

Someone hasn’t watched enough America’s Next Top Model, it seems. I don’t think Tyra would consider this “smizing.”

IMG_9864

IMG_9870

Unable to resolve our creative differences, I needed a new model and a new idea.

Always helpful, Kimberly had a suggestion: “Photo shoot idea: person walking along the beach with afghan wrapped around shoulders. Of course there will be a perfect wind blowing it back just the right amount. Ha!”

Since my first recruit hadn’t worked out, I had a model fly in from New York.

afghan goes to the beach

afghan goes to the beachafghan goes to the beach

afghan goes to the beach

afghan goes to the beach

Special thanks go to Liz for making the trip out just to take pictures with me.

And even more special thanks go to Kimberly for being a rock star.

The other part of my plan was to post a photo of us together, but the only one I could find was 1.) blurry and 2.) taken at High School Musical On Ice which would require admitting that we were in fact there.

afghan goes to the beach

So if you live in Virginia and need an afghan, befriend Kimberly! Or don’t so I can hog her awesomeness to myself. She’s still nice to me even though I took these photos in March and just posted them now.

What’s the best gift you’ve received lately? And “lately” can apparently include the last year. Whoops.


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