kitchen adventures: homemade lefse

Posted by Stacy · 10 Comments 

My husband has issued a moratorium on new kitchen supplies. He says we can’t get anything else until we get more kitchen. He is no fun. But we struck a deal: if he let me get a potato ricer, I would make him lefse.

Lefse, for those of you not raised in the Upper Midwest, is a thin crepe-like pancake make of potatoes, flour, butter, and cream. It is most commonly eaten around the winter holidays, and probably most often of all, purchased from Ingebretsen’s. Despite being of Norwegian descent, my family never had lefse; the only experiences I had with it were at friends’ houses. My mother-in-law often bought lefse near Christmas which my husband really enjoyed. Hence our deal.

The reason that most people buy lefse is that most recipes are scary. The list of equipment is foreign and long and makes the task seem overly complex. I scoffed at the $120 lefse-making kits and said, “Who needs a lefse griddle, lefse stick, lefse rolling pin, and lefse rolling board? NOT ME!” Having never even attempted making lefse before, I was sure these things were unnecessary. Except the potato ricer.

With a vested interest in the process, my husband not only played sous chef and lefse-flipper, but also took most of the process photos. He was dubbed the sous cheftographer for the project, which was his first time ever taking photos with my fancy camera.

Here is my basic equipment version of making lefse:

Peel, quarter and boil your potatoes until fork-tender. Rice the potatoes.

making lefse making lefse

It looks a lot like rice, doesn’t it? Amazing. Measure out 4 cups of potatoes and melt the butter into them. Let cool.

Once cool, add the cream, salt, and sugar, then the flour. Mix well and knead about 10 times. Form the dough into equal-sized patties. I used 2 heaping tablespoons to make lefse rolled out to 8 inches in diameter. Set patties aside to rest for 5 minutes. Preheat pan. Generously flour a rolling surface and rolling pin.

making lefse making lefse

Roll each patty into a thin sheet, adding more flour to prevent sticking.

making lefse

Carefully transfer the circle to the hot pan or griddle.

making lefse

Cook 30-60 seconds per side until bubbles form, then flip.

making lefse

Set cooked lefse on a clean towel, stacked 10-12 sheets high, to cool.

homemade lefse

Serve plain, with butter and brown sugar, or with jam. Fold in half (then half again if large) to store in zip-top bags, frozen for up to 6 months.

They look a lot like tortillas, but the potato base makes them softer and more pliable, and more likely to tear when transferring. My lefse may not be textured from a special rolling pin and they may be smaller, but my husband didn’t mention any of those things. My verdict? Try making lefse. It took maybe 2 hours start to finish including cooling time and gave us a decent supply of lefse. It would be a great weekend project.

homemade lefse

Lefse

Adapted from LefseTime.com
I got about 2 dozen 8-inch lefse from this recipe

Ingredients:
2 pounds potatoes
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, cut into pats
1/2 cup whipping cream
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups flour

Directions:
1.) Peel and quarter potatoes. Boil in salted water until they can be easily pierced with a fork. Drain well.

2.) Working quickly, rice the potatoes. Gently spoon the potatoes into a measuring cup and put 4 cups of riced potatoes back into the pot in which they were boiled. Add pats of butter and allow to melt. Stir a few times to evenly distribute the butter. Allow the mixture to cool completely.

3.) When the potatoes are cool, mix in the cream, salt, sugar, and flour. Stir until combined, then hand-knead dough about 10 times.

4.) Use a measuring cup to portion out the dough and form it into rounded patties. Using 1/3 cup of dough yields about 12-inch diameter lefse. I used 2 heaping tablespoons to make 8-inch diameter rounds. Set patties aside and let rest for 5 minutes before rolling. Meanwhile, heat your lefse griddle to 500F or heat an empty cast iron skillet over medium heat.

5.) Generously flour a clean, flat surface (such as a round pastry board or counter) with 1/2-1 cup of flour and make sure all the area is covered. Coat your rolling pin in flour, as well. Coat a patty with flour and place it on the flat surface. Roll it into a thin circle smaller than the size of your pan.

6.) Carefully lift the circle using a lefse stick, bench scraper, or large spatula and transfer it to the griddle or pan. Cook 30-60 seconds on the first side — it will bubble slightly — the flip over and cook another 30-60 seconds. Transfer to a clean towel to let cool. Stack 10-12 sheets of lefse per pile and cover with another clean towel.

7.) Enjoy plain, with butter and brown sugar, or with lingonberry jam. Fold extra lefse in half or quarters and store in zipped plastic bags in the freezer for up to 6 months.

homemade lefse

baking adventures: baguettes, revisited

Posted by Stacy · Leave a Comment 

Way back in June, I made my first, not-so-valiant attempt at baking baguettes. While they tasted great, shaping and slashing such a hydrated dough proved too much for me. I decided to try again, with still-delicious but much more attractive results.

pain a l'ancienne

Better, yes? The slashing wasn’t great, but even the recipe says not to bother if the dough doesn’t cooperate. Simply being prepared for the dough to be so slack and elastic made it easier to form. They were still a little lopsided, but I think it worked out ok.

Like last time, I only made half the recipe, enough for three baguettes. Other than the shaping, the recipe is really easy. Mix in stand mixer about 6 minutes, overnight rise in the fridge, rise on counter for a few hours, shape, and bake. Here they are before slashing, chillaxing on some parchment.

pain a l'ancienne

Not that I am any kind of baguette master, but I think a few more tries at this recipe and the shaping will greatly improve. I deflated the dough a bit more than I wanted, but despite getting smooshed, the crumb was still creamy with decent-sized holes.

pain a l'ancienne

We ate a loaf last night with some pasta and red sauce, and my husband was actually snacking on a second loaf today. Considering that I have a dozen cookies sitting out (recipe tomorrow) that I am partially convinced contain some kind of addictive drug, this is significant.

So if making baguettes scares you, try this recipe. You can also use the dough for pizza (which I have done with great success) or to make ciabatta bread (which I have not yet attempted). While “authentic” baguette recipes take hours with shaping and proofing, other than the overnight rise, this method needs very little hands-on time. It’s also delicious.

pain a l'ancienne

This time, I’ll even give you the recipe!

Pain a L’Ancienne

Adapted from Peter Reinhart’s Bread Baker’s Apprentice
Makes 6 baguettes, 6-8 pizzas, or one 17×12 inch focaccia

Ingredients:
6 cups (27 ounces) unbleached bread flour
2¼ teaspoons (.56 ounces) salt
1¾ teaspoons (.19 ounces) instant yeast
2¼-3 cups (19-24 ounces) water, ice cold (40F)
Semolina flour or cornmeal for dusting

Directions:
1.) Combine flour, salt, yeast, and smallest amount of water in the bowl of a stand mixer. Mix using the paddle attachment on low speed for 2 minutes. Switch to the dough hook; mix on medium speed 5-6 minutes. Dough should release from the sides of the bowl but stick to the bottom. If not, dribble in small amounts of flour or water until it does. Lightly oil a bowl and transfer the dough using a scraper dipped in water to prevent sticking. Mist the dough with spray oil, cover with plastic wrap, and place the bowl in the refrigerator overnight.

2.) The next day, remove the dough from the refrigerator. It will have risen slightly but not doubled in size. Leave the bowl of dough out at room temperature for 2-3 hours (or longer if the kitchen isn’t as warm) until doubled from its pre-refrigerated size.

3.) Once doubled, sprinkle the counter with about 1/2 cup of bread flour (it’s a lot, but the dough is really wet). Gently transfer the dough from the bowl to the floured counter using a scraper dipped in cold water or wet hands to assist. Try to deflate the dough as little as possible.

4.) Dry and flour your hands. Sprinkle the top of the dough with flour, as well. Gently roll the dough to coat it all in flour, and stretch it into a rectangle 8 inches long and 6 inches wide. Sprinkle with additional flour is dough is too sticky. Dip a metal pastry scraper in cold water and use it like a pincher (not a saw) to cut the dough in half length-wise. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes.

5.) Place a rack in the middle of the oven with a baking tray or baking stone, then another one directly below with an empty pan for steam. Preheat the oven to 550F (500F if that’s as hot as yours goes). Cover the back of two 17 by 12 inch sheet pans with parchment paper and dust with flour or cornmeal.

6.) Repeat the cutting process to cut the dough into 6 lengths (3 from each half). Using floured hands, carefully lift each length and pull it gently to the length of the pan, placing it on the floured parchment paper. Let the dough relax from the center as it is very elastic and stretches very easily. Repeat with the rest of the dough until you have 3 lengths on each pan.

7.) Dip a serrated knife or razor in water to prevent sticking, then score the dough strips with three diagonal cuts. If the dough isn’t cooperating, skip this step. Heat up 1-2 cups of water.

8.) When the oven is preheated, take one pan and carefully slide the whole piece of parchment onto the preheated pan or baking stone. If the dough shifts, make sure the lengths aren’t touching each other. Pour 1 cup of simmering water into the steam pan and close the oven door. Wait 30 seconds and spray the oven walls with water. Repeat twice more at 30-second intervals. After the third spray, lower oven temperature to 475F.

9.) Check the bread after 8 or 9 minutes – it should be starting to brown. Rotate the pan 180 degrees if the loaves are baking unevenly. Continue baking for 10-15 minutes until bread is a rich golden brown and internal temperature is at least 205F.

10.) When bread is done, remove from pan and place on a cooling rack for at least 20 minutes. If you are baking another batch, make sure to re-heat the oven to 500F first.

pain a l'ancienne

brioche, part 3

Posted by Stacy · 6 Comments 

When I mixed up brioche dough, I made half the recipe. So far, I have made apricot-filled rolls, a peach and almond tart, and the goodies I am posting about here. And I still have more dough!

The best description I came up with for these was peach puffs! You could also use puff pastry, I think, and it would turn out delicious. All I did was roll out the brioche dough and cut it into 12 pieces. In retrospect, I would use a round biscuit cutter, but I cut squares. Lesson learned. Each piece was rolled thin then placed in greased muffin tins and topped with fruit filling!

Let me mention now that I am not good at cutting even pieces of dough. For example:

peach puffs

About 15 minutes at 350F gave a nicely browned dough and set filling.

peach puff, ready for bakingpeach puff, hot from the oven

Did I mention the layer of ground almonds, sugar, vanilla, egg, and half-and-half? Sort of a super ghetto frangipane. I think it needed more half-and-half to be more custardy, but it was still good. A definite step up from the first incarnation. See it peeking out from under the peaches?

peach puff, side view

They were easy to transport, too, so I took them to rehearsal to share. They went over well.

peach and almond filled brioche puff

The peaches I bought were white peaches, which I didn’t realize when I bought them. They were still very good, just not as orange as standard peaches. All in all, I think the project turned out quite pretty, and they tasted good, too.

peach puff

I’m not very confident with my measurements here because I eyeballed the whole operation after the bread dough, but the basic idea is this:

Peach Puffs

Ingredients:
a grapefruit-sized hunk of brioche dough
flour for rolling out dough

Filling
2 medium peaches
1 tablespoon flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1/4 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp nutmeg

Almond layer
1/3 cup almonds, blanched and peeled
1/4 cup sugar
1 egg
1/4 cup half-and-half
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Assembly:

Almond filling: Pulse almonds in a food processor until finely ground. Add sugar and pulse. Add extracts and egg and combine. Add half-and-half gradually until desired consistency is reached. It should be easily pourable.

Fruit filling: Blanch peaches in boiling water for about a minute, then shock in cold water and slip off skin. Dice peaches and toss with sugar, flour, and spices.

Grease the 12 cups of a muffin pan. Roll dough into a rectangle of equal thickness and cut into 12 pieces as evenly as possible. Using plenty of flour, roll each piece fairly thin, no more than 1/4″ thick as the dough puffs in the oven, and about 5-6 inches across, use a bench scraper to peel it of the counter, and drape one piece over each muffin cup. Arrange each piece of dough so that it isn’t touching its neighbors, then divide the fillings evenly among the 12 muffin tins, almond on the bottom. Let rest for about 45-60 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350F. When the dough is ready, sprinkle each cup with a little coarse sugar for added optional crunch. Bake at 350F for about 15 minutes until the edges are golden brown. Remove from oven and let cool in the pan for a few minutes, then remove and let cool on a wire rack. Serve warm or room temperature.

baking adventures: almond peach deliciousness

Posted by Stacy · Leave a Comment 

Instead of doing, say, laundry, or anything else on my constructive to-do list for the day, I baked. No recipe, just a few ingredients, a food processor, some over-zealousness, and the oven.

Combine:

  • brioche dough
  • a ripe peach
  • all the almonds you can find in the cupboard (your husband ate the rest)
  • an egg
  • sugar
  • flour
  • nutmeg
  • cinnamon
  • salt

What do you get?

almond peach adventure

From the fridge came a hunk of brioche dough which I rolled into a thin rectangle with a small lip. On top of that went a cobbled-together concoction of ground almonds, sugar, flour, and an egg. Peach slices were arranged on top of that, then sprinkled with a mixture of flour, sugar, cinnamon, a touch of salt, and freshly-ground nutmeg.

After about 45 minutes resting time, it spent 30 minutes in a 375 degree oven. It would have been better at 350F, I think, and maybe for a few more minutes at that rate. I also need to tweak the almond layer. The first problem is that I had considerably fewer almonds in the cupboard than I remembered. It turned out a little crispier than I had anticipated, as I was going for a more gooey idea. Still tasty, just not what I was trying to achieve.

almond peach brioche tart

The flavor combo was great, I just need to work on the textures. I have some ideas for tomorrow (and I bought more almonds). It was quite the blanching project though as both the almonds and peach needed their skins removed. The brown flecks in the almond layer are from me tossing in some slivered almonds to round out the quota.

I would give this project a B. Good leaning experience, good concept, execution needs some work but I know what I want to try next! Check back for improvements!

baking adventures: brioche

Posted by Stacy · 7 Comments 

Yesterday I woke up earlier than I wanted, so I did the obvious: mixed up a batch of brioche dough, left it to rise, and went back to bed. Two hours later I was ready to face the day, and my bread dough was ready to go in the fridge. Everyone wins!

The recipe I used was from Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day: The Discovery That Revolutionizes Home Baking. The authors are both local, and the book offers a variety of no-knead bread recipes that are easy and versatile. The other thing I like is that they include recipes for dishes that accompany or complement the breads.

The brioche dough can be used to make brioche in loaves or buns, filled or unfilled (duh), but also caramel rolls, Bostock, beignets, coffee cake, fruit pastry, or bread pudding. The dough is a warm yellow color because of all the eggs.

brioche doughbrioche dough

The recipe makes “four 1-pound loaves,” so I made half the recipe and then just took out what I needed to make two small rolls. A recipe listed in the book gave instruction for chocolate ganache-filled brioche, but that seemed too rich to me today. Instead, I used apricot preserves for a lighter treat.

brioche, fresh from the oven

This was my first effort making a filled roll, and it didn’t go as well as I had hoped. The dough gets very sticky when warm, but I handled it a little too much forming the smaller buns. After leaving the balls of dough to relax for a while, they got a bit sticky which made them harder to manage. While I did eventually get all the fruit contained, it was a smaller amount than I would have liked. Lesson learned! It was still tasty.

apricot-preserve filled brioche

Next time I might make the apricot pastry in the book with a pastry cream. Yum. Or a teaspoon of cream cheese with the fruit preserves. That would also be delicious. Many of the recipes can be found on their website, Artisan Bread in Five.

Brioche Dough
Adapted from Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day
Makes about 2 loaves or a number of smaller buns

3/4 cup lukewarm water
2 1/4 teaspoons granulated yeast (1 packet)
2 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
1/4 cup honey
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted
3 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

Combine water, yeast, salt, eggs, honey, and melted butter in a large lidded non-air-tight container (I use a 5 quart ice cream bucket). Add in flour about 1/2 cup at a time, stirring with a wooden spoon until all the flour is incorporated.

Cover and let rise at room temperature about 2 hours (dough should rise and collapse slightly in the middle). Refrigerate at least a few hours or up to 5 days before using.

When you’re ready to bake, remove the dough from the refrigerator. Dust the surface with flour and pull out the amount of dough you want to use (remember there are 2 loaves-worth in the bucket). Use a serrated knife to cut off the piece you want. For two good-sized rolls, I cut off a piece a little larger than a baseball which I then cut in half.

Figure out a better way to do this, then tell me how: carefully stretch your dough into a fairly thin disk, place a tablespoon of fruit preserves in the center, fold the dough over it, seal, and roll back into a ball. Place the buns on a parchment-lined baking sheet, cover with a clean towel, and let rise for about 40 minutes. When the rolls have almost-doubled in size, preheat the oven to 350F. Bake rolls at 350F for 15-20 minutes until the tops are golden. Cool on a wire rack.

Submitted to YeastSpotting

baking adventures: baguettes

Posted by Stacy · 7 Comments 

A while back, I bought Peter Reinhart’s book The Bread Baker’s Apprentice: Mastering the Art of Extraordinary Bread. The light wheat bread recipe has become my go-to sandwich bread, and the cinnamon rolls were one of my first food blog-style posts on my LiveJournal.

Half the book is dedicated to explaining the “12 steps of bread” and the various flours, tools, and methods used to create bakery-quality loaves at home. The other half is recipes, including Reinhart’s personal “claim to fame,” pain a l’ancienne. The simple bread “formula” is just flour, ice water, salt and yeast which rises in the refrigerator overnight. The dough can be made into baguettes or pizza, or allowed to rise further for ciabatta or focaccia loaves.

I have never made real baguettes, and while the shaping didn’t go quite as well as I had hoped, the bread still tastes amazing! Recipes that call for 6 cups of flour or more intimidate me, so I only made half the recipe. I used my shiny new kitchen scale! Hooray! Also broken in: new pizza peel, and shiny bench scraper courtesy of a generic nameless friend.

pizza peelbench scraper

Tools ready!

After the overnight rise in the fridge, I scraped the dough gently into an (overly) generous amount of flour. After stretching it into a vaguely-rectangular shape, I used the bench scraper to slice the dough into pieces that were not as equal as I had hoped.

resting baguette dough

The dough has a high-moisture content so lots of flour is needed to combat stickiness. Not that much, though. Oops. Lesson learned! Despite my plan to make mini baguettes, I got a bit carried away shaping the first batch. The dough is just so elastic!

shaped "breadsticks"

Scoring the dough allows the bread to expand in the oven and form extra crunchy crust! It’s better if you score nicely, though. Following some advice in the book, I used scissors instead of a lame (mostly because I don’t have a lame. Hmm.), which resulted in… lame scoring. Har har har. No seriously. It’s bad.

scored breadstickspoorly-scored breadstick baguette

They ended up more like breadsticks than baguettes, but they were still delicious! Pardon the phallic presentation. Or is that just me? Oops…

baguette breadsticks

Each baguette-stick (!) is about 2 inches in diameter, so considering how thinly-stretched they got, the crumb is still pretty impressive, I think!

baguette crumb

In an attempt to make shorter and wider baguettes, batch number two went thusly:

mini baguettes
pain a l'ancienne mini baguettes

This batch could have used another minute or two in the oven. Also, the whole experience would likely have been better with some kind of baking stone or tiles (*shakes fist at Home Depot again*). That’s a project for tomorrow!

Still too much flour, but they work just fine for sandwiches! Lunch yesterday was one of those sliced in half length-wise with olive oil, tomato slices, salt and pepper. Divine!

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